On the Coastal Swedish Trails: Centuries in the Rhythm of the Waves

Begin the journey at St. Michael’s Swedish Church in Tallinn’s Old Town. For centuries, this church has been a religious and cultural center for the Swedish-Estonian community, and even today, it holds significance across Scandinavia, drawing parishioners largely of Swedish-Estonian descent. The church holds Swedish-language services every Sunday.

In the basement, you’ll find a museum where visitors can view historical church artifacts from St. Michael’s and Vormsi churches. 

In the summer, take a peek around the church courtyard, where chickens may greet you!

Next, the tour leads to Rooslepa Chapel and cemetery. This site has seen many changes over time, and today, what was once an overgrown cemetery has transformed into a peaceful, scenic resting place with numerous crosses bearing Swedish names.

Take a look at the weather vane atop the chapel’s bell tower, shaped like a whale with an open mouth. Arriving right at noon, you might be lucky enough to hear the beautiful bell chime! 

Visitors taking the guided tour at Rooslepa Chapel will hear stories of lost treasures, a royal visit, and the people fondly remembered even centuries later.

After lunch, take a stroll around Österby Harbor, where a beautiful view of Haapsalu’s skyline unfolds. Although the Haapsalu castle, seemingly just a stone’s throw away across the sea, actually requires a 40-km drive by road. During the summer, individual visitors can book a direct water taxi to the city of Haapsalu.

During the season, you may encounter many fishermen in the harbor area, allowing a glimpse of what the sea has offered them today. Each year, a traditional endurance swim challenge also takes place here, across the bay between Haapsalu and Österby. Do you think you’d be up for it?

In winter, an ice road leads from Österby Harbor to Haapsalu, allowing individual visitors to cross by car in the right conditions. 

Towards the end of the day, head to Haapsalu and visit the Coastal Swedish Museum. An embroidered tapestry by the local “Thursday grandmothers” brings together the day’s experiences and stories, creating a complete narrative of the Coastal Swedes' history. If you find yourself at the museum when it is closed, take a look at the replica tapestry on the museum’s exterior wall.

At the museum, you’ll also discover the story of the blue-black-yellow flag, and you may even be treated to the sounds of the Hiiumaa zither, brought from Vormsi Island.