On the Coastal Swedish Trails: Centuries in the Rhythm of the Waves

Begin the journey at St. Michael’s Swedish Church in Tallinn’s Old Town. For centuries, this church has been a religious and cultural center for the Swedish-Estonian community, and even today, it holds significance across Scandinavia, drawing parishioners largely of Swedish-Estonian descent. The church holds Swedish-language services every Sunday.

In the basement, you’ll find a museum where visitors can view historical church artifacts from St. Michael’s and Vormsi churches. 

In the summer, take a peek around the church courtyard, where chickens may greet you!

Next, the tour leads to Rooslepa Chapel and cemetery. This site has seen many changes over time, and today, what was once an overgrown cemetery has transformed into a peaceful, scenic resting place with numerous crosses bearing Swedish names.

Take a look at the weather vane atop the chapel’s bell tower, shaped like a whale with an open mouth. Arriving right at noon, you might be lucky enough to hear the beautiful bell chime! 

Visitors taking the guided tour at Rooslepa Chapel will hear stories of lost treasures, a royal visit, and the people fondly remembered even centuries later.

After lunch, take a stroll around Österby Harbor, where a beautiful view of Haapsalu’s skyline unfolds. Although the Haapsalu castle, seemingly just a stone’s throw away across the sea, actually requires a 40-km drive by road. During the summer, individual visitors can book a direct water taxi to the city of Haapsalu.

During the season, you may encounter many fishermen in the harbor area, allowing a glimpse of what the sea has offered them today. Each year, a traditional endurance swim challenge also takes place here, across the bay between Haapsalu and Österby. Do you think you’d be up for it?

In winter, an ice road leads from Österby Harbor to Haapsalu, allowing individual visitors to cross by car in the right conditions. 

Continuing the journey in Noarootsi, peek into the Noarootsi church yard and, if the door is open, into church itself, dating back to the 13th-14th century and home of current St. Catherine congregation.

A stone with an inscription commemorates the visit of Sweden’s current King Carl XVI Gustaf to Noarootsi and the church in 1992. When visiting the church, you can also catch a glimpse of the recently renovated parsonage across the road.

Towards the end of the day, head to Haapsalu and visit the Coastal Swedish Museum. An embroidered tapestry by the local “Thursday grandmothers” brings together the day’s experiences and stories, creating a complete narrative of the Coastal Swedes' history. If you find yourself at the museum when it is closed, take a look at the replica tapestry on the museum’s exterior wall.

At the museum, you’ll also discover the story of the blue-black-yellow flag, and you may even be treated to the sounds of the Hiiumaa zither, brought from Vormsi Island.

In the middle of the island is one of the most important cultural and tourist attractions, St. Olav's Church, dating back to the 14th century. There was a period in the church's history when it was abandoned after the Swedes fled the island due to World War II, but it was reconsecrated on St. Olav's Day in 1990! The church's distinctive feature is the lack of a bell tower, but you can find the bell under the ridge above the door.

The unique Vormsi cemetery, located next to St. Olav's Church, is another very important attraction. In the oldest part of the mysterious cemetery, you can see over three hundred special limestone and sandstone ring crosses. This small collection of ring crosses, or sun crosses, is considered the largest in the world.

The best known of the three lighthouses in Vormsi is the Saxby lighthouse. The beautiful white lighthouse, made of cast iron, marks the entrance to the Väinamere archipelago and can be visited during the summer season. Historically, the year 1990 was important when the Vormsi church was blessed. For this purpose, the Swedes of Vormsi, who had fled the island at the time, received special permission to visit Vormsi. Visiting Estonia was not yet allowed. The Swedes of Vormsi were brought to the island by a special ship, which was given permission to drop anchor and stay in the roadstead in Saxby. The arrivals were allowed to visit the island by passing through a temporary border control only by leaving their passports behind and receiving their passports back on the ship, i.e. when returning to Swedish territory.

Swedes have lived in Vormsi for centuries, the oldest documents about the settlement date back to the 13th century. It is a telling fact that before World War II, 2,393 Swedes and 122 Estonians lived in Vormsi. The Vormsi Farm Museum in the village of Sviby provides an overview of a typical pre-World War II farm. The farm complex has been restored based on old photographs, literary sources and the memories of Vormsi residents who fled to Sweden.